A walking tour with AirBnB Experiences in Copenhagen

I took far less photos yesterday due to cold hands and wanting to listen to our tour guide more than capture the surroundings.

Hygge & Happiness Tour

We booked an AirBnB Experience months ago (this one, specifically) and were so very glad we did. I chose to do it a couple of days into our trip so we would hopefully be better adjusted to the time and be able to get up and out of the house and figure out transit all in time to make our reservation. It was the right thing to do.

Along with learning more about Copenhagen, Hygge and Happiness, we stopped a few places for treats included in the tour; a bakery called Det Rene Brød, for traditional pastry (ironically not called “Danishes” here – they’re called “Vienna Bread”)

Hygge & Happiness Tour

Hygge & Happiness Tour

Took our treats to the Kings Garden to eat and hear some history about the castle (this one, a vacation home for the King with the first, ever, flushable toilet. Set over a mote … so, you know. Functional but not entirely sanitary yet.)

Hygge & Happiness Tour

Between our stops, we’d walk through the streets and talk or ask questions. Besides our family of four, there were 6 other people on our tour as well. Four from California and two from Ohio. 🙂

We made our way to Peter Beier Chocolate for a chocolate tasting, cooking/baking etc in Copenhagen is a serious business and they try to do everything as organically and environmentally friendly as possible (as a business, you also get a tax break for doing so – and with taxes as high as 66% … while most people don’t mind paying the taxes because of what they get back from them – you still take all the breaks that come your way) and the Chocolatier was no different.

The tasting started out with two different morsels – the only difference in them was the soil. The tree variety, treatment, etc etc were all the same – but one tree was next to a river and another was a mile away in an orchard. The first one we tried was from the tree in the orchard. I think it was something like 85% cocoa, and it was a delicious dark chocolate. There was an acidity and bitterness but it was pleasant. Then we tried the morsel from the tree by the river and it was SO DIFFERENT. Sweeter, almost. Less bitter. It was wild – and a great example of how just the soil can affect the taste of our food.

Kind of eye-opening.

We wound through more streets, heard some folklore about Copenhagen, saw fountains and statues and where the locals hung out vs. the tourists and we ended our tour at Bertels Salon, a cheesecake shop that has won the Best Cake award twice (and they’ve only handed out the prize twice).

Hygge & Happiness Tour

Hygge & Happiness Tour

The drinks were included in the tour but if we wanted cake, we’d have to purchase that ourselves, however after the chocolate and pastries – none of us wanted more sweets.

We also learned:

Hygge is pronounced like “HOO-GA” but even more like “HUGH-Ga” … you need the dirty u, in the back of your throat.

Bike theft is the biggest allotment for crime in the city, and almost no one locks up their bike. (It’s very safe)

The Little Mermaid is actually a very disturbing story. Disney colors things in rainbows (which I guess I knew, but also had no idea there were original versions so different than the Disney ones, go figure)

King Christian IV had a reign of 60 years, but was appointed at age 11. He was eccentric and named streets after things that probably weren’t a thing in Copenhagen at the time (Lemon Balm, being one of them. Elephant, Crocodile etc being other street names)

Copenhagen is for families

Coffee + Croissant before transit, Grøndal stop

We started out our morning (March 27th) with a coffee from what I would call a subway station. Train station? It’s a stop on the train at Grøndal and they only take Danish currency or bank cards, so we could finally stop here on our way out today after getting some money exchanged. We also didn’t get out of the house until after 1pm, jet lag is still keeping us on our toes.

So our adventures were mostly in the Halmortvet area of Copenhagen, also what’s known as their “meat packing district”. We dined in a couple of the best places, and now we’ll eat cheerios for a week 🙂

Our first meal of the day was around 3pm, we went to Mother and shared two pizzas. So delicious! Reminds me of Midici back home.

After breakfastlunch (?) we found a park to play in, we had planned on going to the aquarium today but when it didn’t turn out to be a rainy day and we decided to wait until after our tour (today) to activate our Copenhagen cards – we had some disappointed kids on our hands. So we found a park and everyone remembered they were kids, again.


The park is called Skydebanehaven and you walk through this HUGE brick gate? wall? castle? into this courtyard of playthings and giggling.




We got to use google translator to talk to some boys who were playing soccer and our son joined in. No one understood each other, but they knew what to do with their feet – and that was all that mattered. We had been waiting for Kødbyens Fiskebar to open, which was our whole reason for being in this area to begin with, but we still had time to kill so we just went slow. Played in the street, read books on benches, waited.

Streets of Copenhagen





It was time … Kødbyens Fiskebar opened and we were among the first to sit down. As a table, we tried: 1/2 dozen oysters (I have on video the kids’ reactions to trying these for the first time. It’s everything you hope it would be.), fish and chips, king crab with amazing layers of flavors that they told us all about and all I can remember is “THE KING CRAB” as an exclamation on our dinner. It was so good. We also tried the blue mussels. And beer.

Kødbyens Fiskebar

Kødbyens Fiskebar

Kødbyens Fiskebar

Kødbyens Fiskebar

Kødbyens Fiskebar

We walked back to Copenhagens “central station” to buy bus tickets to get back home and that, in itself, is always an escapade. There was actual running after a bus, but the wrong bus, which we boarded (totally out of breath) and got off one stop later only to walk back to the Copenhagen station and start all over.

We made it back home, a little fuller than we left, with sore feet and a take-home cake from the grocery store (think Little Debbie) to share. The kids went to sleep easy and we read books for a while before finally closing our eyes knowing we’d have to wake up to an alarm today to get out in time for our tour.

I haven’t quite figured out the french press coffee maker at this house, but I haven’t stopped trying. Here’s to another day of firsts!

Copenhagen by foot

Nyhavn Canal

We are in Copenhagen for a couple weeks and yesterday was our first “real” day here. Jet lag and travel took up the first 48 hours of our get-away but we made up for it walking all over Copenhagen yesterday.

Day 2, Copenhagen sights

We hit up some of the most recognizable sights just to see them, get our bearings, and to help us way-find while we’re still here. We rented a house via Airbnb right around the blue circle region and walked all the way into the heart of Copenhagen and sought out the red-circle area’s on our 8 1/2 mile trek yesterday.

Here’s what we saw:


We stopped for a to-go coffee from Mad Kaffe and made a mental note to spend more time here in the coming weeks. Tables outside, blankets, candles flickering. A very hyggelig atmosphere. (Hygge – pronounced “HOO-GA”) Hygge isn’t a buzz word here, it’s a way of life … and I am all in.

Streets of Copenhagen

Streets of Copenhagen

We made our way towards the Torvehallerne KBH market for lunch … think Pikes Place in Seattle, only less crowded. There is no throwing fish, but there’s a lot of fish to see. Also an open air farmers market and flower market. THE FLOWERS.


Fresh flowers

We walked around to check everything out and settled on trying our first Smørrebrød of the trip, choosing a salmon salad with roe and a chicken salad open-faced sandwich, a couple of strange fruits we had never tried before and a beer for Aaron and I to share, and a locally made pop for the kids to share.

Lunch at Torvehallerne KBH

After lunch, the kids each got a treat from the market. So many treats everywhere. It’s a serious business, from what I read – it’s also part of the Hygge lifestyle; something warm to drink and something sweet to eat, preferably to share. (They’re working on the sharing part 😉 )

Lunch at Torvehallerne KBH

We took their treats to go and walked towards Ørstedparken, a park, on our way to Nyhavn (pronounced “NEW-HOW”) for a canal tour.




We stumbled on some beautiful sights, signs of spring, and play-areas for children. The children are feerer here, people trust each other. And parenting sounds the same in every language.

On our way towards Nyhavn for a canal tour, we walked along the water and found one of the swim harbors.

Swim harbors

You would think it’s too cold to swim, but we saw locals taking a dip on the other side of the harbor – and as we were walking along, we watched a man strip down to his boxers and jump right in. (I’m assuming he just finished working out, as we were next to a gym, but who knows.) Aaron was inspired. There will be polar-dips in our future here.

The water - so clear!



Such a gem! We’ll be back here. We took one of the canal tours to see the city by water, it was chilly – but what we noticed about Copenhagen is that people just get on with life. The cold, and even rain, doesn’t stop them from commuting by bike or walking. They carry their babies in baskets if they’re on foot and without a stroller, or on the front of their bikes. Life goes on. And on and on and on. It was beautiful, actually. To see so many people still living and not holed up in their houses, away, because of some chilly weather.

Canal tour

Canal tour out of Nyhavn Canal

On one of the bridges over the canal – there’s Love Locks on the bridge, like in Paris.

Love locks on Nyhavn Canal

After the canal tour we needed to warm-up so we looked for a place to sit inside. We struck out a few times before settling on a Belgian Waffle + ice cream place. Our daughter was looking for a specific place and we couldn’t find it – so we just went here.

Sweet treat :: Nyhavn

Sweet treat :: Nyhavn

By now we were all feeling the 8+ miles we had logged on our feet, a little chilly, tired and ready for a meal. Aaron wanted to get to a Fish market – one of the stops made on Someone Feed Phil (which is a docu-series on Netflix, that if you are curious, you should very much watch. I dare you not to love him.)

But he accidentitally led us all back to where we started at the Torvehallerne KBH. We quickly course-corrected and went straight for DØP, instead.

DØP hot dogs

I have to be honest, we went back for seconds.

DØP hot dogs

DØP hot dogs

DØP hot dogs

DØP hot dogs

I regret nothing.

Between all of us, we tried: The roasted hotdog, the French hotdog, the goat hotdog, the spicy beef hotdog, and the pork sausage with garlic.

We’ll be stopping here again and again.

After a good nights rest and still not quite being on Copenhagen time, we’re going very slow today.

Home for a couple weeks - Airbnb

A few tips and things to look forward to:

Traveling with teenagers is still traveling with teenagers 😉 We’re loving this time together as a family, but don’t you worry – we are all still so very human. Even in Copenhagen! HUMAN HUMAN HUMAN.

Thursday we signed up for a Hygge walking tour through Airbnb Experiences. Can’t wait to see parts of Copenhagen from a local’s perspective and get even more ideas and tips of what we should be sure to see/do while here.

We plan on getting Copenhagen Cards so we can sight-see a number of different things while we’re here.

Tivoli opens April 4th – and we will be there with bells on! (We walked past it yesterday on our walk into the center of Copenhagen, I think we’re all equally as excited to experience this gem)

Before we left on our trip, the night before, I finally had a restful nights sleep. (It’s been a while, things have been stressful and up in the air in a variety of different ways, and life was feeling heavy, not in a looming doom sort of way, just responsibility. This trip has been a beacon for us, in more ways than we could even know.) Any way – before I woke up Sunday morning I remember thinking “this trip is going to be two weeks of joy!” and I have to tell you … that’s what I’m getting out of this. A cup that runeth over. Refilled.

As we stop to rest on this trip, or find wifi to check our maps or upload a photo, I’m jotting down little memories of what I see:

“Old men riding bikes while smoking cigarettes. Blankets over chairs, candles flickering, outside bistro seating under low lighting and heaters. Native language that sounds like speaking poetry underwater.”

And I’m so thankful to be here, now.

How to feel softer

The amount of posts I’ve started writing during a storm are probably outnumbered by any other criteria for this space. We are experiencing a good ol’ fashion cleanse from the Winter here in West Michigan, right now. This minute. The skies opened with a crack and she has been pouring it on us for minutes. Which, when you’re still enough, feels like hours.

And. It. Is. Glorious.

I have my “Hallelujah” playlist on Spotify playing in the background. Ok, the foreground. Because it’s LOUD. The rain is the staccato behind everything else.

I can’t tell you why I love the rain so much. I always have. I remember the smell of the rain in Nigeria and the dust rising as it pounded the earth right outside of our screened porch. Everything got dirty, which was funny, because rain usually cleans things off. But in Africa – everything is dirt and dry and still. Until it rains. And then everything is sprayed in the evidence that the earth can still give birth.

So, hi. It’s been awhile since I’ve ripped off a bandaid and bled here. Not that this is what I do here, on the regular. But I miss having a space to chronicle parts of my life I want to remember. The gritty, the dirty, the salvation of it all. I want to see pools of blood to recognize where the healing came from.

Parenting is a constant in my life. We’re raising kids and we went from the Easter-Basket phase to the Barf-On-The-Side-Of-The-Road phase. We are constantly hungover from parenting.

It’s still sublime, I’m obsessed with my kids. I love them so much, it actually hurts. But also? I lose my religion on the daily. I wonder if we’ve done everything wrong, often. I fret over things that are not actually connected to me, but because my kid(s) are experiencing it – I do too. I continue to have weird correlations with their ages, although less and less with such a force of personal reconciliation and more, now, with a reckoning of understanding that I was not ever, nor was I ever going to be, prepared for this.

Sometimes Aaron and I will think back to when we were first married and we just laugh. I had nieces and nephews, I was an avid babysitter and caregiver. We had our shit together, or so we thought. And then we had our own kids – and it’s adorable, really. I’m so glad we were so blind about it, to be completely honest. How pure and unfretted and rare it was to walk into being a mother without fear. It was everything I ever wanted. To be pregnant and have babies and raise a family. God. Yes.

Still is.

Is it harder now because it’s almost over? Because I don’t know who I am, without them, any more? Because I can see down the road and the next exit is college? I know where this is going. They are going to grow up and our of my house. Out of my immediate care. She is going to fall in love and he is going to run so fast towards his goals we won’t know he left until he’s already out the door. They’re going to leave.

I want them to. They need to. This is healthy. This is what we want, what we’re working towards. And they can always come back, oh I hope they come back. But they’re going to leave. They will outgrow this house and our traditions and memories and they’ll brave a new trail and make their own paths and I’ll be the first one on the sidelines to cheer my fool-head off at them. I can’t wait.

It’s going to be so good.

It is.

But it’s going to be so soon. And I’m a mess about it. It’s not over yet and I’m mourning the end. It has been the most delight I’ve ever experienced in all of my life, to be a mother. Their mother.

I wonder if we’ll remember the smell of this rain. How it baptized me from everything still and dry and dirty and left the evidence all over my life that I gave birth …

to them.

Mothers Day 2008

As I end this post the song ‘I Get To Love You‘ by Ruelle is playing, and it’s everything.


Thoughts from the polar vortex of 2019

There’ve been a number of different themes floating around my head/heart lately. Boundaries, Permanence, Patience. They’ve been poking around like those little sucker fish that hitch a ride on larger species, just kind of there. Waiting, often annoying me or nagging me or sucking me dry of my limited resources while other times I can go entire days without knowing they’re still there.

But, it’s the sixth snow-day in a row for my kids and I found myself silently saying “just wait til next week.” I have honed my ability to lower my expectations over the years to a bit of a science of Jodi. I know what it feels like to build, build, build until the only thing left is to watch something fall or, maybe, how it feels to latch on to something someone said (leading) and start to think in absolutes about a situation, event, or idea only to feel completely gutted and like I got the wind knocked out of me when things don’t go the way I had imagined.

When our last school-week ended with a snow-day and the weather looked ominous, I started preparing for the whole week home. I figured if they went back to school at any time, that would be a bonus, but mostly I was just ready to hunker down, go very slow, and shovel a ton of snow. Guess how this week turned out?

Home every day, all day. I yelled more than I wanted to, there was way more screen time than I thought I would allow, but there were still playdates, I cleaned and organized my entire kitchen, I watched some fun shows, we played games and as it started to feel less like the apocalypse we started venturing out of the house. To the store, the library, to see the water.

Polar Vortex 2019

I stayed off my phone as much as possible, misery loves company and I was trying so hard to not go down there. I’ve had years where snow-days threw everything off and instead of just slowing down and taking it as it came, I fretted over the things I wasn’t able to do or the places I wasn’t able to go. I didn’t know how to recalibrate. I think I’m still learning, but I also didn’t engage in the practice of complaining.

And those little sucker fish; Boundaries, Permanence, and Patience kept pace with me as I slowed down. I wasn’t gracious about it, like I said, I yelled more than I wanted to – but I also apologized more than I used to and took more deep breaths. I don’t want my kids to remember their days home with me as being an inconvenience for me.

I had to cancel plans I had made, I had to reprioritize my days according to my kids’ needs and wants, every night before I went to bed I had to decide if I was going to get up tomorrow and try again, and not disappear, as is also my M.O. There were a few mid-day cocktails. But there was also a lot of laughter. My kids (and I) finally got bored enough to get curious again.

Last night we watched ‘Patch Adams’ as a family and after the credits rolled we googled Hunter Patch Adams and found his blog and a recent post with a video of Patch talking about books.

He’s in the same league as Bob Goff, for me. When people lead with their passions as publicly and unapologetically as they seem to, I can’t help but be a fan. I am a serious fan-girl of seeing other people’s fires lit and glowing white hot. And I think I like to believe that people are mostly good and that we’re all working something out and that laughter is often the boat that outlasts the storm.

And I went ahead and ordered David Abram’s, ‘The Spell of Sensuous’, from the library that Patch recommends in his video. As well as checked out a small army of books for garden planning and landscaping ideas, because along with my little suckers of Boundaries, Permanence, and Patience … I’ve grown wildly in my ability to rest in Hope.